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RUST FREE™ FAQ
- Rust Free™ is a chemical cleaner used to remove rust from iron and steel, and off of some surfaces other than metal. It is not intended for cleaning other metals such as aluminum.
- The reason to use a chemical rust cleaner is that when you look at rust you are looking at the top of the rust. The rust penetrates down into the metal. Sanding the surface only cuts the top off the rust. There is still rust down in the pores of the metal. One would have to machine away the surface to a depth below the rust penetration to remove all the rust mechanically. A chemical cleaner can reach down into the pores of the metal to dissolve and flush away the rust.
- The reason to use Rust Free™ for rust removal is because it is a fast and easy to apply do-it-yourself product which produces excellent results.
- Cleaning steel, such as a saw blade, is more time consuming than cleaning cast iron such as on a table saw. This is mainly due to the fact that cast iron is much more porous than steel and the cleaning chemistry is more easil worked into the the rusty pores of the cast iron.
- Although the information below in this FAQ refers to cleaning cast iron, the same information applies to cleaning steel.
- The amount of Rust Free™ required depends on the amount of rust to be removed. There are two factors to consider when determining the "amount" of rust on a cast iron table. First is over all coverage and second is how deep the rust is into the surface. One 8oz. bottle of Rust Free™ would oridinarly be more than sufficient to clean the table on a saw or planer, even if the surface is completely covered with rust. From experience an 8oz. bottle is ususally sufficient to clean two or three tables.
- One can have a lot of surface rust coverage without it going very deep into the metal. That is quick and easy to clean. The more time consuming rust to remove is where it is deeply pitted into the surface of the table.
- When you begin, do a preliminary rust removal. Using a piece of Scotch-Brite™ pad rub off the loose rust on the surface, then wipe it. This is not a heavy-duty procedure. If the rust is bubbled up on the surface, the piece is likely deeply pitted. In that instance use a scraper to remove the bubbled up portion of the rust. In a severe case it may be necessary to use a belt sander, but then the piece may be beyond reasonable recovery.
There are two reason for doing the preliminary rust removal. First, it is usually quick and easy to do and reduces the cleaning time. Second you use much less Rust Free™ to remove the remaining rust.
- Now apply the Rust Free™. Use a non-metallic scrubbing pad or brush to work the Rust Free™ into the metal. We use 3M Scotch-Brite™, grade "very fine". Do not use steel wool or a wire brush. The purpose of rubbing with the scrubbing pad or brush is to agitate (or stir) the solution so that the fresh chemistry on top is forced down to the undisolved rust underneath, especially in pitted areas.
- Using the Scotch-Brite™ pad can burnish the surface of the metal whereas using a non-metalic brush will not. However, rust removal using Rust Free™ and a Scotch-Brite™ pad is much, much faster than using a brush due to the texture and greater surface area of the pad. If using a brush the bristles should be very fine, very stiff, and very dense for best results. Toothbrushes are generally too soft and too small, but may work in tight places.
- ATTENTION: WIPE OFF RUST FREE™ WHEN IT GETS DARK AND THICK!
RUST FREE™ CAN DARKEN AND THICKEN IN AS LITTLE AS 30 SECONDS DEPENDING ON THE AMOUNT OF RUST AND THE TEMPERATURE.
DO NOT LEAVE RUST FREE™ ON THE METAL FOR MORE THAN 4 MINUTES. WHEN LEFT TOO LONG IT TURNS BLACK AND IT WILL DRY AND HARDEN REQUIRING FURTHER CLEANING.
- Because of the short working time (about 3 to 4 minutes maximum at room temperature) keep the area being worked fairly small, about 10-12 inches square, and gradually work across the piece. If one tries to do too large an area at once the the Rust Free™ begins to dry on and that just makes the job more difficult. Because the odour is quite strong, doing smaller sections makes that more manageable. Work in a well ventilated space and use normal precautions for corrosive cleaners.
- The working time of Rust Free™ (the time that the chemistry is still active) varies depending on the amount of rust and the temperature. If there is a lot of rust you use up the applied Rust Free™ faster. If the temperature is warmer the chemistry works faster.
You can tell when the working time is up because the Rust Free™ turns dark and thick. That is the time to wipe it off.
- If after wiping there is rust remaining it just means that you had more rust than the amount of chemistry applied could dissolve, or the rust is very deep. Simply reapply to remove the remaining rust. In the case of deeply pitted metal it can take several reapplication to complete the job.
- When wiping Rust Free™ off for the final time, wipe well until the paper towel or cloth no longer drags but slides smoothly. That way you know that you have wicked up the dissolved rust and spent chemistry out of the pores of the metal.
- No need to neutralize as it is self neutralizing.
- Be sure to coat the cleaned portions with Boeshield T-9® soon after cleaning because re-rusting can happen in minutes to hours at most.
- Rust Free™ removes Boeshield T-9®. So if you spill or spray Rust Free™ onto a surface coated with Boeshield T-9® you need to wipe off the Rust Free™ and then re-apply Boeshield T-9®. See our How to Use Boeshield T-9® - PDF and our Boeshield T-9® - FAQ
- Rust Free™ is quite strong and will gradually disolve the Scotch-Brite™ pad and erode the spray nozzle of the pump bottle. Rinsing the pad with water and pumping water through the spray pump after use will limit this.
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Rust Free™ may darken the metal, can discolour some paints, will remove bluing, and will damage most fabrics. Test before use. Read the warnings on the bottle label.
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